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Palmitoyl Pentapeptide Improves Photo-aged Skin: Presented at WCD

By Jill Stein
Special to DG News

PARIS, FRANCE -- July 2, 2002 -- Results of a randomised, double-blind trial suggest palmitoyl pentapeptide (Pal-KTTKS) improves the appearance of photodamaged facial skin.

Dr. Larry Robinson, with Procter & Gamble Company, Cincinnati, Ohio, United States, presented the findings here at the 20^th World Congress of Dermatology (WCD).

Palmitoyl pentapeptide is a lipophilic modified peptide originally developed based on wound healing research and currently being investigated as an anti-aging ingredient. The peptide was developed by Sederma SA in Paris, France, and is being tested by Sederma and Procter & Gamble.

The 14-week, randomised double-blind, split-face study compared the technical and subjective efficacy of a facial skin care formulation containing 3 ppm palmitoyl pentapeptide versus a non-peptide formulation.

The trial consisted of a two-week preconditioning period and a 12-week treatment period. Each formulation was tested on 92 women aged 35 to 55 years. Subjects were generally healthy and had moderate to severe photodamaged facial skin and Fitzgerald skin types of I, II, or III. During the 12-week treatment period, subjects were given both test formulations and instructed to use them twice a day, in the morning and night, on the right or left side of their face.

Facial lines and texture were assessed by image analysis and trained visual grading of high-resolution digital images taken at baseline and at weeks 4, 8, and 12. In addition, subjects completed a self-assessment questionnaire regarding their own skin appearance at weeks 4, 8, and 12.

Results showed that the addition of 3 ppm palmitoyl pentapeptide significantly decreased facial lines and wrinkles as measured by image analysis at weeks 4, 8, and 12 relative to placebo. Trained visual grading of images also demonstrated a significant reduction in the appearance of fine lines/wrinkles at weeks 8 and 12.

Self-assessment data indicated that the peptide formulation showed improvements in the appearance of age spots, dark circles under the eyes, and skin firmness.

Overall, the results suggest that palmitoyl pentapeptide improves the appearance of photo-aged skin both by standardized measures and self-assessment, Dr. Robinson said.

The study was sponsored by Procter & Gamble.

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