Source: Lancet  |  Posted 10 years ago

When Vitamin C is applied topically, the effect on aging skin can prove beneficial, according to a report from France.

Apparently, the mechanism of action relates to an activation of the collagen metabolism.

The connective tissue in the skin undergoes alterations during the process of aging. This has resulted in the hypothesis that cells in the extra cellular matrix and the extra cellular matrix itself are involved in the aging process. In addition ultra-violet radiation is believed to induce adverse reactions in the skin which then leads to photodamage. The UV-induced lesion is due, in part, to reactive oxygen species.

Since the discovery that vitamin C is the antiscorbic factor in 1930 researchers have been working to elucidate its mechanism of action. In dermatology, vitamin C has been used as a reductant and in collagen synthesis.

Dermatologist Dr. Philippe Humbert from the University Hospital Saint-Jacques in Besan?on, France, provides an in-depth description of vitamin C and its properties together with a reminder that vitamin C levels of the skin can be severely depleted following UV irradiation.

As a result, Dr. Humbert designed a double-blind, placebo-contrlled study on 20 women aged between 55 and 60 years using a formulation of 5% vitamin C w/o emulsion applied daily over a period of six months. All volunteers had photoaged skin (low neck). The topographical, biophysical and mechanical properties of the skin underwent measurement, and biochemical analysis of the collagen metabolism undergoing treatment were performed on skin biopsies.

By comparison with placebo controls, there was a highly significant increase in the skin microrelief density and a decrease of the deep furrows on the side of the neck treated with Vitamin C cream. This improvement was confirmed by the dermatologist's clinical examination together with self-assessment by the patient, this included particularly the fine wrinkles.

Dr. Humbert describes in detail all aspects of the clinical study, and among other conclusions suggests that vitamin C is effective in postmenopausal women and its use can be increased.